Phthalates are widely used in everyday beauty products due to their versatile properties. They prevent cracking in nail polish, reduce stiffness in hair sprays, retain scent in fragrances, and add flexibility to plastics.
Phthalates, colorless and odorless plasticizers commonly found in cosmetics and personal care products, are stirring concern among health experts and consumers alike. The European Commission and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) have classified them as endocrine disruptors, reproductive toxicants, and probable human carcinogens. However, limiting exposure to these chemical compounds remains a significant challenge.
Mahua Choudhury, PhD, an associate professor of pharmaceutical sciences at Texas A&M University and co-director of the Texas A&M Health Center for Micro-encapsulation and Drug Delivery, explains that the risk from phthalates goes beyond just microwaving plastics, a precaution many consumers already follow.
“People often believe plasticizers are hazardous when microwaving because they think the chemicals will transfer to their food,” she said. “However, phthalates do not require heat to be released.” Exposure to phthalates can also occur through eating, drinking, breathing, and even through the skin.
What makes phthalates particularly concerning is their ability to cross the placenta during pregnancy, potentially affecting a developing fetus. Once inside the body, phthalates can interfere with the endocrine system, which regulates hormones controlling everything from metabolism to growth.
This disruption has been linked to various health concerns, including metabolic disorders and inflammation.
“Recent studies focused on how phthalates influence metabolic and inflammatory processes” highlight the complex ways phthalates disrupt critical biological pathways.”
Some of the most common phthalates found in consumer products include diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP). These compounds have been associated with a range of reproductive and developmental issues.
Research has shown that prenatal exposure to DBP and DEHP can result in altered male genital development, hormone imbalances in infants, reduced sperm quality in men, and infertility in women. The EPA has even classified DEHP as a probable human carcinogen, increasing concerns about long-term health effects.
Despite these concerns, the FDA’s stance on phthalates remains complicated. While the agency requires an ingredient declaration on cosmetics under the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), companies are not legally obligated to disclose fragrance or flavor components.
As a result, phthalates can be hidden under the term “fragrance” or “perfume” on labels, making it difficult for consumers to make informed choices.
Dr. Choudhury cautions that even products marketed as “clean” or “organic” may still contain phthalates. “Just because a product is labeled ‘clean’ or ‘organic’ doesn’t automatically mean it’s free of these harmful chemicals,” she said.
The FDA conducted a survey in 2010 to track the use of phthalates in cosmetics but does not require companies to submit full ingredient lists, leaving gaps in consumer knowledge.
While some companies have committed to avoiding phthalates and may explicitly label their products as “phthalate-free,” consumers still face significant challenges in minimizing their exposure.
This is particularly true for pregnant women and young children, who may be more vulnerable to the potential effects of these chemicals. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reported elevated levels of phthalates in women of childbearing age in a 2001 study, further underlining the need for greater consumer awareness.
The U.S. regulatory environment starkly contrasts Europe, where the European Commission has classified certain phthalates as endocrine disruptors and restricted their use in cosmetics. The FDA, however, maintains that available evidence does not warrant action against phthalates in cosmetics despite ongoing research into their long-term health impacts.
“Phthalates pose a particular risk because their effects can extend from the mother to the baby,” Dr. Choudhury noted. “Additionally, race plays a role—studies have shown that African American populations often use specific hair and makeup products that contain higher levels of phthalates.”
While the FDA considers certain phthalates, such as DEP, safe in current cosmetic applications, the growing body of research suggests that avoiding these chemicals can help reduce health risks. Given the widespread presence of phthalates in beauty products, consumers must actively understand product ingredients and make informed choices to protect their health.
As scientific research continues to unfold, regulatory bodies will face increasing pressure to reassess the safety of phthalates in consumer goods.
